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Proper 30-06 cartridge for elk?

Question:

Try a load with a 180 Nosler Partition. They will work well from point blank range to as far as you should shoot. I handload but some of the manufactures have them in their premium load. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.hunting Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 5:14 AM > I may try my hand at elk hunting this fall as well… I understand that I > should use heavy bullets for this, but does that mean going all the way up > to the 220-grain loads I see around?  Am I better off with a rounded > bullet or pointed?  The shots in my area would most likely be well under > 200 yards, probably much closer to 100 or even less.  Brush is a factor as > well.  I’ve heard that round bullets have a better time with brush but I > can see from the charts that they are slower and lose velocity faster. > May not be an issue if the shots are close though, right? > I guess if I were just going to go buy something, it’d be 220-gr round > soft points… but if anyone has anything bad to say about them, please > let me know! > Thanks again to the group, > -jeff —— > Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: >         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

Response:

> does that mean going all the way up to the 220-grain loads I see around?

180 grain is plenty fine.  Nosler partitions (are available in factory ammo if you aren’t a reloader) are about as good as they come. > I’ve heard that round bullets have a better time with brush

This myth is finally dying out.  American Rifleman had an excellent article detailing some tests on ‘brush busting’ bullets and calibers a few years back.  To sum it all up, "There is no such thing."  If you hit brush with your bullet, strange things are going to happen, and Mr. Murphy will ensure that the strange things are not helpful to you. > I guess if I were just going to go buy something, it’d be 220-gr round > soft points

If you decide to go with the 220s, don’t be too surprised if your rifle doesn’t like them.  If your rifling’s twist is too slow, they won’t stabilize. — I do not exist to serve the state. Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

Response:

> I may try my hand at elk hunting this fall as well… I understand that I > should use heavy bullets for this, but does that mean going all the way up > to the 220-grain loads I see around?  Am I better off with a rounded > bullet or pointed?  The shots in my area would most likely be well under > 200 yards, probably much closer to 100 or even less.  Brush is a factor as > well.  I’ve heard that round bullets have a better time with brush but I > can see from the charts that they are slower and lose velocity faster. > May not be an issue if the shots are close though, right? > I guess if I were just going to go buy something, it’d be 220-gr round > soft points… but if anyone has anything bad to say about them, please > let me know!

First elk hunt?  Here are a few suggestions: This may be the hunt of a lifetime or the first of many elk hunts.  Either way the cost of the bullets is minimal compared to what the hunt will REALLY cost you, unless you’re shooting off your back deck. Choose a premium bullet like Nosler Partitions (Federal loads them in their ‘Premium’ line), Barnes X, etc., etc.  I wouldn’t get a round nose soft point, although many elk have been taken with them.  You want something that will hold together after going through heavy shoulder bones.  Would also stay away from Nosler Ballistic Tips and similar bullets for the same reason — they are really designed for lighter game, although many elk hunters use them. Bullet weight isn’t as critical, IMHO, as bullet construction, as long as you are using a suitable weight.  You mention 220 grains so I’m guessing you’re shooting a .30-06?   Anything 180 grains or above will be OK.  If you’re using a smaller caliber, choose a heavy-for-caliber bullet — 150 grains for .270, 160-175 for 7mm.  (Don’t have a .270 or my reloading books handy, so the 150 grains for .270 is a guess.) Choose your cartridge/bullet and then go sight-in.  Suggest 1.5" high at 100 yards,  then verify zero at 200 yards if possible.  Should be close.  Then check loading manuals to see what they say the drop should be — should be able to determine approximate bullet speed and drops at longer ranges. Write the info down where it will be handy in the field.  (I put a sticker on my ammo box so I see it every morning and evening I load/unload.)  The knowledge may come in handy when, for whatever reason,  the shot you hoped would be 100 yards turns out to be 300 yards. As to ‘brush busting’ bullets, forget it!  Unless the elk is VERY close to the brush, the bullet can be significantly deflected and damaged, regardless of bullet type or caliber.  If the elk is 10 feet on the other side you stand an excellent chance of a miss or a wounded elk that runs forever.  (I once shot at a coyote with my .22-250.  Hit a twig and missed the coyote by 3 feet.  The coyote was out about 125 yards, 15 feet on other side of a dead tree limb.  Also read in a gun rag years ago about a test one of the writers did, shooting through brush.  The traditional "brush busters’, like the .45-70, didn’t fare any better than anything else.  Point of impact was absolutely unpredictable after the bullet went through the brush, regardless of caliber.) Having said all the above, none of it is as critical as other things you will need to do unless you get lucky.  Be prepared to hunt the dark timber, be ready at all times, and place your shot(s) well.  The Colorado Division of Wildlife once put something out that said elk prefer a 20-30 degree slope that faces north.  During the day I tend to find them wherever the going is hard and the shade is deep. Best of luck to you! Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I may try my hand at elk hunting this fall as well… I understand that I > should use heavy bullets for this, but does that mean going all the way up > to the 220-grain loads I see around?  Am I better off with a rounded > bullet or pointed?  The shots in my area would most likely be well under > 200 yards, probably much closer to 100 or even less.  Brush is a factor as > well.  I’ve heard that round bullets have a better time with brush but I > can see from the charts that they are slower and lose velocity faster. > May not be an issue if the shots are close though, right? > I guess if I were just going to go buy something, it’d be 220-gr round > soft points… but if anyone has anything bad to say about them, please > let me know! > Thanks again to the group, > -jeff

180 gr bullets work beautifully for elk. Go with one of the premium loads using Nosler Partitions or something similar. deflect a bullet. Round noses have been proven to be just as bad as pointed types. If you have to shoot through brush, you don’t have a shot. Period. Good luck. Dick F. Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

Response:

> I may try my hand at elk hunting this fall as well… I understand that I > should use heavy bullets for this, but does that mean going all the way up > to the 220-grain loads I see around?  Am I better off with a rounded > bullet or pointed?  The shots in my area would most likely be well under > 200 yards, probably much closer to 100 or even less.  Brush is a factor as > well.  I’ve heard that round bullets have a better time with brush but I > can see from the charts that they are slower and lose velocity faster. > May not be an issue if the shots are close though, right? > I guess if I were just going to go buy something, it’d be 220-gr round > soft points… but if anyone has anything bad to say about them, please > let me know!

First, nothing can penetrate bush reliably.  It is a waste of time to consider performance in bush as a factor. Second, you never know about just what kind of shot you will get.  There is no advantage in loading a specialized bullet unless you are certain of only specialized situations.  A .30-06 is a capable round that can handle many situations well.  Why not utilize its potential by giving it a bullet that will work in many situations? The best all round bullet for the .30-06 is a premium 180 grain spitzer.  Try to find something with Nosler Partitions or equivalent bullets and you will never regret the choice. Larry Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

Response:

I may try my hand at elk hunting this fall as well… I understand that I should use heavy bullets for this, but does that mean going all the way up to the 220-grain loads I see around?  Am I better off with a rounded bullet or pointed?  The shots in my area would most likely be well under 200 yards, probably much closer to 100 or even less.  Brush is a factor as well.  I’ve heard that round bullets have a better time with brush but I can see from the charts that they are slower and lose velocity faster. May not be an issue if the shots are close though, right? I guess if I were just going to go buy something, it’d be 220-gr round soft points… but if anyone has anything bad to say about them, please let me know! Thanks again to the group, -jeff Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

Response:

>I may try my hand at elk hunting this fall as well… I understand that I >should use heavy bullets for this, but does that mean going all the way up >to the 220-grain loads I see around?  Am I better off with a rounded >bullet or pointed?  The shots in my area would most likely be well under >200 yards, probably much closer to 100 or even less.  Brush is a factor as >well.  I’ve heard that round bullets have a better time with brush but I >can see from the charts that they are slower and lose velocity faster. >May not be an issue if the shots are close though, right?

You concern should be bullet performance when it hits the elk. What you would like to see is a projectile that stays together–jacket and core remain intact; one that expands reliably; and one that develops adequate cross section to dissipate all of its energy in the elk while still penetrating sufficiently to insure mortal damage. Round nose or pointed doesn’t mean a whole lot. You should be thinking about bullet construction. That means spending a bit more than for generic ammo. Some premium bullets to seek are Nosler Partition, Barnes A-frame, and Trophy Bonded Bear Claw. Stay away from Nosler Ballistic Tip, as they are designed for rapid expansion in thin skinned or small game and won’t give you the desired penetration in elk.  (You can find the bullets mentioned in factory loads from companies like Federal, or you can find the bullets as a handload component for your own recipes.) My personal choice for 30-06 is the 180 grain, Trophy Bonded Bear Claw, but I’ve also used Noslers with good results.  Ed Rasimus   Fighter Pilot (ret)                               *** Ziff-Davis Interactive                               ***   (http://www.zdnet.com) Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

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